32歳にしてミシュラン獲得！若き料理人が作る日本料理 | 日本料理 研野 |【RED U-35 グランプリ】【ミシュラン一つ星】【ミズ】【鱧】【大徳寺納豆】【誌面連載】

32歳にしてミシュラン獲得！若き料理人が作る日本料理 | 日本料理 研野 |【RED U-35 グランプリ】【ミシュラン一つ星】【ミズ】【鱧】【大徳寺納豆】【誌面連載】

[Stir-fried sea eel with wild vegetables and Daitokuji natto] My name is Kenya Sakai, and I run Japanese Cuisine Kenya in Kyoto. Today, I’m going to make stir-fried sea eel with Daitokuji natto and wild vegetables called mizu. Mizu is a vegetable that grows wild around humid places in the mountains in Aomori. Mizu at this time of the year are very thick and crunchy and yet have a unique melting texture in your mouth which are loved by local people in Aomori. It is also very versatile as it can be used both stir-fried or pickled. The skin is quite tough, so the first step is to peel off this stringy skin like a butterbur. The skin sometimes breaks, but you can just continue peeling while trying not to break it. Cam: So we basically only eat the stems? Chef: Yes, the leaves are hard and stringy, so we don’t eat them very often. Cam: You mentioned earlier that it grows wild, which means that they are not cultivated? Yes, they are not cultivated, but rather, we simply receive the bounty of the mountains. The ones with reddish, large roots are considered good mizu, as they have a stronger melting texture. In Tsugaru dialect, this texture is called “zurumegu,” and my grandmother used to say that word to express how tasty it was. It takes a lot of time and effort to peel them, but I remember my mother and grandmother used to peel them when I was a child. As mizu is not as acrid as spring wild vegetables, there is no need to rinse them in water, and you just cut and cook them after peeling. Cut them into bite-sized pieces. Today, I’m using shallots to cook with Daitokuji natto for their aromatic flavor. Cam: Aren’t shallots rare to use in Japanese cuisine? Chef: They are not very common, but I like their aroma when stir-fried. Daitokuji natto has a strong flavor, so I add garlic to give it a flavor that can compete with Daitokuji natto. As Daitokuji natto is too big to be mixed with the other ingredients, I’m going to chop it first. Cam: What is Daitokuji natto made of? Chef: Daitokuji natto is a seasoning made by fermenting soybeans with salt for a long time. It is the original form of miso, and in China, it is called “douchi” and is often used in mapo tofu. In Japan, it was introduced along with Zen Buddhism and is usually made at Zen temples. That is why it is called Daitokuji (name of temple) natto. If it was made in Ikkyuji, we call it Ikkyuji natto. Cam: How did you come to know about this ingredient? Chef: At the restaurant Kyo Seika where I learned how to cook, there was a stir-fried dish with douchi. I knew the existence of Daitokuji natto as an accentuating ingredient at the restaurant Kikunoi, but using it as a proper ingredient is something I learned at Kyo Seika. Cam: You’re chopping it very finely, can’t it be done with a food processor or something similar? Chef: I use sharp knives to make sure that it is cut properly, which is something that can’t be done in food processors as they rather just mash the ingredient. [Preparing sea eel] Cutting the bones is one of the most basic things, and you do so by putting the knife at an angle. As the bones are going this way, putting the knife upright to them will make them easier to cut. Now that the bones are cut, we’ll season and deep fry it. First, grease the pan with oil and add garlic. Then, stir-fry the Daitokuji natto that we chopped earlier. Stir-fry until the garlic is cooked. Also, remove the excess water in the Daitokuji natto. Cook slowly and carefully over low heat, making sure not to burn the garlic. Once the garlic is colored and fragrant, we can move on. Now we’re going to season the sea eel. First, add Vietnamese fish sauce Nước mắm and then Japanese sake. Season it lightly. I have tasted many different fish sauces, but I felt Vietnamese Nước mắm is most suited to the Japanese palate. It doesn’t have that strong smell and even that smell disappears when heated, leaving only the nice flavor and that’s why I use it very often. Next, we’re going to season the mizu. After heating it, make some happo dashi and add chopped kombu to it, and put the mizu into that dashi with kombu flavor. As it gets boiled, the color will gradually become brighter and brighter, and the reddish part will also turn bright green. Cam: Shouldn’t we need to add salt when boiling?NChef: No, just boil them alone. Cam: I feel vegetables in general are hard to boil right, but how long should we boil mizu? Chef: I think the crispiness is what makes mizu very delicious, so it’s about how well you can get the most out of that crispiness. As it gets boiled, there will be more tenderness to the crispiness, so I try to look for the point where that happens. In Aomori, we often eat it with sea squirts. Other than that, we often eat it with herring which many are caught in Hokkaido and Aomori and are usually preserved by drying. To keep this beautiful color, cool it quickly in iced water. Coat the sea eel we just seasoned with some potato starch, and remove excess starch by taking it in a colander. Cam: What is the temperature of the oil? Chef: It’s 180 degrees Celcius. Sea eels are cooked quickly in just less than a minute. Deep-fry the eel until the outside is crispy and the inside is soft and fluffy. In the meantime, I will stir-fry the Daitokuji natto and shallots, and then put the fried eel after. Put the mizu as well. Add a little salt and granulated sugar to add some taste. Now it’s all done. Finally, squeeze a little bit of sudachi citrus for a little sourness and aroma. The sea eel is seasoned and has a strong flavor from the fish sauce, as well as the umami of the Daitokuji natto and garlic. The eel has got a kick to the taste, so the mizu will act as a cushion in between. This crunchy and yet tender texture will come together in your mouth and harmonize the whole as a single dish. So that is the stir-fried sea eel with mizu and Daitokuji natto. So here is the stir-fried sea eel with mizu and Daitokuji natto. This time, I stir-fried a sea eel after giving it a solid taste and deep-fried it crispy outside and fluffy inside, and added the powerful aroma of Daitokuji natto and garlic, so it is quite strong on its own. The mizu is there to soften and balance out that strong flavor. Its role is to give some texture and bring the whole dish together. Finally, squeeze a citrus to add aroma and sourness which make the other flavors stand out. Please taste the eel first and then the mizu right after. Taster: The outside of the eel is so crispy. And the mizu is very fresh and crunchy. Chef: I only seasoned the mizu lightly, so it should soften the taste and bring it all together. Taster: The eel is well seasoned while the mizu is light, so everything is just right. Chef: It makes me want some beer or rice wine. Taster: Especially there’s garlic in it too. The dish goes very well with shaoxing rice wine. Chef: I’m glad to hear that! Cam: Thank you very much! Today’s dish will also be featured in the October issue of the Cuisine Kingdom, so please take a look at it as well.

今回は京都･岡崎に店を構える、「日本料理 研野 」酒井研野主人に、青森県の山菜「ミズ」･鱧･大徳寺納豆を使った炒め物をご紹介いだきました！

酒井シェフは昨年、「RED U-35 2022」“グランプリ”レッドエッグ獲得（史上初）
更に「ミシュランガイド京都・大阪2023」にて1つ星を獲得。

目まぐるしい速度で成長を遂げ、輝かしい成績を残されている料理人でございます。
今後のご活躍に期待が掛かりますね！

料理王国が運営する、「プロの料理人から、美味しい料理を作る知識やコツが学べる料理専門チャンネル」

★チャプター
0:00 オープニング
0:50 ミズの皮を剥く
2:39 大徳寺納豆を刻む
4:04 鱧の骨切り
5:53ミズの湯がき
6:49 鱧を揚げる
8:45 試食
10:26 店舗紹介

■分量

■この動画を見て頂いた方へのオススメ動画
★チャンネル内オススメ動画
・菊乃井 「ぜんまいと揚げの白和え･めばるの煮付け」

・とうもろこし天ぷら＆すり流し｜てんぷら小野

・山菜マスター直伝！ふき味噌｜竹久

◇日本料理 研野
https://presquile.jp/
京都府京都市左京区岡田徳成町28-22
・京阪本線 神宮丸太町駅 徒歩8分
↓Google Map↓
https://www.google.com/maps/place/%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E6%96%99%E7%90%86+%E7%A0%94%E9%87%8E/@35.0159872,135.7760537,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x60010960d6cc697b:0x3f0b7998110ba1d4!8m2!3d35.0159872!4d135.7782424!16s%2Fg%2F11qq5ddxht?entry=ttu

火曜～土曜営業
一部 17時から19時
二部 20時から21時半

◇Gourmet Studio FOOVER
　https://foover.jp/
◇料理王国WEBサイト
https://cuisine-kingdom.com/
◇「料理王国年間購読」お申し込みはこちらから（年間／¥5,500）
https://cuisine-kingdom.shop/products/magazine-01
◇料理王国がオススメする食材の通販サイト
https://foover.shop/

★お仕事や取材の依頼などはこちらまでご連絡ください。
　gourmetstudiofooverjapan@gmail.com

　■Instagram
　　https://www.instagram.com/gourmetstudio.foover/
　■Facebook
　　https://www.facebook.com/fooverofficial/
　■Pinterest
　　https://www.pinterest.jp/foover0034/

＃日本料理 #ミシュラン #大徳寺納豆