“捨てられていた部位”が絶品に。マグロで挑んだ家族の逆転劇｜くろば亭 密着ドキュメンタリー
The goal here is to create the most fun tuna dishes in the world, which is the aim of this restaurant Tuna offal is actually a local delicacy of this town While these dishes can be really delicious, if made by amateurs, they tend to be smelly and unappetizing So let’s research that as well We thoroughly prepare the offal dishes that go well with any kind of cuisine By doing so, we can show just how delicious tuna offal can be At that time, internal products were not something that could earn money I was often insulted with comments like, ‘What you made isn’t even worth a cat stepping over it.’ But I remember my dad saying one day, “You have to create something that no one else can make.” I thought that a dish that can’t be eaten anywhere else is the only way to go I thoroughly researched tuna entrails My name is Takuya Yamada The name of the restaurant is Kuroba-tei, a place for tuna and international cuisine This is delicious tuna that doesn’t fall apart It won’t come off even if you shake it Isn’t it amazing? This is Tuna bought by craftsmen This is real tuna Yes, Nakatsumi-chan I have been taught this for a long time I like the term ‘established creation,’ and it’s quite common, isn’t it? From there, you do something a little different, right? Then customers come back looking for that again But again, as time passes, it will become normal again Doing something new again And then that will become normal again I think that’s how the world works The local dish of this town, tuna, is evolving to meet the needs of the times This is my perspective on tuna This is a land of frozen tuna, so the tuna is frozen Check if there is fat or not This is quite good fat, isn’t it? My daughter is buying a whole tuna, and I’ll go check it out later These are all the tuna that my daughter bought My daughter has been buying tuna since her college days Recently, I’ve finally been able to buy good tuna I am Kasumi Yamada What my brother often says is that I’m reckless? He often tells me, ‘You’re so reckless.’ It’s both a good and a bad thing that I’m completely absorbed and only looking forward, but I think that aspect really resonates with who I am right now A lot of people get caught here, you know Is that so? With a stop? I’m still okay with a stop, though I always count, ‘one, two, three,’ and then I go Whenever I walk here, I feel like I’m going to battle I was nervous because there were many older people Now I can talk with everyone quite a bit I started working part-time at Kurohane-tei when I was in my first year of high school When I was asked, ‘What do you recommend?’ I would say something like, ‘I recommend horse mackerel,’ but when they followed up with, ‘Why do you recommend it?’ I couldn’t answer, and I felt really frustrated So, when I told my father about it, he took me to the market It was various central markets and such At the Misaki market and so on Ah, this horse mackerel is incredibly fresh It’s delicious because it’s this time of year Being able to convey that From there, the opportunities to see the very first ingredients of Kuroba-tei are increasing more and more It’s a job where you can see the customers’ smiles from the very first moment to the last dish served, and I think that’s really nice I’ve been gradually realizing that I don’t know if I can buy it yet, but the quality is really good I wonder if I can buy it If I’m feeling weak, I won’t be able to buy it I hope I can buy it It was expensive I couldn’t buy it, huh? I’m glad I was able to get one today Well, I’m having quite a bit of fun with it, but at first, it was definitely back in high school I used to listen to everything my dad said, absorb everyone’s stories, and try to learn everything, but gradually I became more capable and quite a bit cheeky, which is where I am now I’m causing trouble Really Good morning Looks delicious It’s expensive Wow, but this groove here… Mr. Marui, a small India? I was thinking of buying a small India The tuna I was just looking at is a small Indian tuna at the very back, but the fishing grounds are really good, and it was delicious tuna, so I placed a bid Later, to the place where the tuna was landed I want to go together I started studying how to judge tuna from my fourth year of university I was thinking again about why tuna is so delicious From there, I just introduced Mr. Maruiwa I learned a lot Prices, market trends, and good red meat This is how this tuna is, and I’ve been taught a lot about it thoroughly I’ve been taught every single day I wonder who catches this tuna eventually I was really moved when I saw the catch of that tuna This has probably been going on for about a year to a year and a half Ships that have sailed around the sea come to Misaki, and the tuna is unloaded there I get really emotional just thinking about being lined up in the market This is the distribution of fisheries around the world Today, I The first tuna I bought was from the fishing grounds off Fremantle here If I can buy it, I can buy this here again I love it here because I’m interesting Good morning, Grandpa! The person I just greeted is He’s not my real grandpa, but he’s the fishmonger I used to visit I just bought it I think the very first tuna I bought was brought here, and everyone was pulling on the tuna Was brought I’m going to get the tail now May I have the tail? Thank you I’ll contact you again Yes! Please do The tuna wholesalers all have their own shop names and are indeed wholesalers Mr. Maruiwa is currently at the tuna shop We run a restaurant, and after seeing the tuna with Mr Maruiwa, we ask him to cut it for us We ask Mr. Maruiwa to cut it, put it in a box, and then store it in the freezer We, Kuroba-tei Things that we can’t do alone Mr. Maruiwa always does a lot for us I can’t go this way I messed up I can’t take it anymore, what should I do? It’s always just like this! I completely messed up, it was definitely this way… I’m always doing things like this, I’m always told by my dad, “Where are you?” When driving, I forget to touch my phone, so I also don’t notice my phone So you always have location-based apps installed, huh? Huh? Is this correct? Ah, I made a mistake here! I couldn’t go after all! Ugh! I really don’t want to do this… Well then, I’ll quickly decide where I want to go in about a minute! Coming here brings back quite a few memories I think I need to work hard to buy tuna again I was told by someone at the market, ‘Come see the tuna being unloaded,’ and I just happened to go This is the place where the tuna is unloaded In terms of size, it’s about that big ship It takes about a year to a year and a half to travel the seas Sometimes it can be a bit shorter, though I quickly lift it up and then quickly lower it down At that time, I happened to see an important person managing the ship “Why don’t you come and take a look inside the ship?” they called out to me When I went inside the ship, I was able to meet the tuna captain, the ship’s captain, and the crew members, and we talked about various things Do a lot of it Seeing things like that already The tuna was lined up in the market I was already so happy when the tuna caught by those people was lined up I always think, ‘I have to do my best.’ My brother is actually always I’m going to the market to see local fish, and it’s amazing My love for local fish “This fish is like this, and after peeling it, it tastes good after a few days, and so on…” I often say things like that It’s amazing, looking at that makes me really think that the ingredients at Kuroba-tei are great! Awesome! But I think you saw the preparation of the stomach and heart, and everything was really delicious It’s a stomach Tuna stomach This is a throat, you see This will become food How to express and transform the local culinary culture of regional cuisine It has become my roots For example, it’s about organ dishes, right? It’s all the tuna entrails that we prepare today This is an egg, right? Heart This is the stomach with white roe As you can see, it’s clear Many people often confuse white roe with eggs; this one is a bit red, but that white roe has… You see this line? This is the blood vessel, like this And then there’s the eyeball of the tuna head I focused on the bee’s cheeks, throat, and other parts that are often referred to as offal, like bee larvae Well, that’s what you call offal After all, it’s a local dish from this town (When the fishermen return to Misaki), the smell of cooking stomachs fills the town, making it a very popular local dish Things like that are actually really delicious, but when amateurs make them… Smelly and unappetizing So we thoroughly research that as well to make it suitable for any dish We thoroughly prepare offal dishes, don’t we? By doing so, it refers to the internal organs of the tuna I didn’t know it was this delicious Nowadays, internal organs are considered to be very valuable, right? I think the same can be said for beef and tuna Let’s assign a value to internal organs that is not to be underestimated, comparable to that of fatty tuna That’s been my thought all along, hasn’t it? First, dissolve the gelatin in hot water This is the one that takes the most time, you know It takes just over an hour to boil It takes time for the preparation It takes time to season it after boiling It’s the most labor-intensive task, but whether this preprocessing is done properly or not makes a difference The taste is changing and becoming unpleasant All of this Because it’s not a tasty extract It’s getting more and more beautiful, isn’t it? Well, this is still only about 10% It gives the impression that you research anything and everything I researched and created many prototypes, whether it was meat, fish, or anything else I often have the image of seeing the side profile of someone cooking, as if they always found something new Even when going out with my family, I would carry a 20-kilogram cooking bag, put books in my bag, and constantly study cooking while going about my daily life I did that for many years I haven’t eaten anything I like for over 20 years, even when going to restaurants So I only eat things that help me study, and after all, I have a great father I’ve been thinking about how to beat my father all this time After all, it’s a clash with my mother To my mother, “Even a cat wouldn’t step over what you made.” I was scolded quite a bit by my mother, I’ve always thought to myself, ‘I have no talent,’ but well, my father too “You have to create something that no one else can.” My father is not someone who teaches cooking I grew up watching him Ah, so this is how it’s done Well, it’s morning and all I sometimes taste samples made with various ideas This one is interesting too I don’t think there are many miso-pickled yacon This shop is currently buying whole tuna, but Until now, it was really a tail restaurant, At first, my father was running a Western-style night restaurant here The crew on the ship had a lot of customers, so it turned into a bit of a night snack place Then the tuna crew noticed that the number of customers decreased So after that, instead of running a tuna restaurant, I opened an exotic dish restaurant When I started serving dishes made from raccoon, deer, crocodile, and ostrich, customers suddenly stopped coming When I was wondering what to do, the city hall officials came to me I thought, ‘I have to start with tuna,’ and after finally getting on track, I realized I have no money left My dad, my mom, and I ended up with less than 10,000 yen in total for our funds So we decided to use the tail of the tuna to try various things, and we started using the tuna tail continuously At that time, tuna tails weren’t that expensive Because there was no one using tails back then There are rare dishes that use such tails That’s amazing! Getting attention from various people Gradually starting to bounce back a bit This restaurant here is said to have started with dishes made from tuna tails You know, I’ve always thought that someday I would buy a whole tuna at this market Actually, the store is doing well right now, At one point, it was incredible It has reached a slump, hasn’t it? There are no customers on the weekend, and there are plenty of staff I thought, ‘Oh no, is this really bad?’ But just when I have to keep going When the coronavirus came Since there are no customers because of the coronavirus, I said I would showcase everything I’ve done (like organ dishes) all at once to the customers This prosperity we have now is due to that My brother has a strong obsession with fish, and he seems serious and meticulous But I think it’s thanks to that attention to detail that we can enjoy delicious local fish This is the internal organs and head of the tuna We store it in a freezer at minus 40 degrees This is a tuna collar This is a tuna helmet, the head This is tuna roe This is it This tuna’s jaw Well, it’s divided into various parts I’m going to take this back to the shop and cook it now I am Genta Yamada My feelings towards fish are Nowadays, there are often aged meats and fish that specify how many days they have been aged, and I think that’s perfectly fine However, I believe that you can only eat fresh things on the day they are available That’s why at the central markets like Toyosu or Tsukiji, fish from all over the country arrive quickly, often the same day or the next day, but in Misaki, you can bring in live fish in about 5 minutes by car, and you can immediately turn that into sashimi and eat it I think this is something that is quite rare to experience now So if you’re coming to Misaki anyway, I really want you to try the fresh, crunchy fish I really have a strong obsession with fish after all My younger sister The obsession with tuna is so intense that it’s a bit off-putting, you know? But Genta is the same, right? I was just talking about that Oh, is that so? In the case of tuna, human relationships are incredibly important What is that? What is that? I’m not quite sure about that I’m shy around new people My younger sister is quite skilled at navigating through life You’re handling it flawlessly This place is really interesting Please I will do it! I’m glad! I’m relieved because I had that injury earlier This is the tuna I bought earlier Each one is completely different I often wonder what it was when I buy various types of tuna I write everything down in a memo at the end I think, ‘I’ll use this tuna today,’ and go from there Oh! That’s great! I have finished cutting Mr. Maruiwa I will carry it to the rental freezer I’ll go get the car for a moment It’s dangerous, dangerous! It’s okay! It’s not okay! Thank you very much Are you okay? Can you hold it? I can hold it! Thank you! I’m glad there are no injuries today Thank you for your help The difficulty level of driving here is high Ah, right, right… (Baa-tt baa-tt!) We’re not going to rush through it! Let’s be careful, careful… So embarrassing…! Everyone, you know? I’m really not good at parking at all What did you say…? Huh!? Huh? Why? I’m correct, right…? That’s right, isn’t it? Me! So embarrassing…! Isn’t it a bit embarrassing? I mean, I usually manage to stop properly I had you film for me on YouTube Then I’ll do one song Everyone sings… It feels like a choir competition… I don’t want to become more famous because I don’t use YouTube! Huh!? That tuna Why don’t you give this a try? I’ve been learning a lot of different things I am having it done That’s right I have to act quickly, don’t I? What are you doing? Hurry up and put it away! Well, yes, just a little… That’s right Don’t rush it… I tend to forget a little bit Thank you for your hard work The tuna today looked delicious And there’s fat too It’s all fatty tuna I wonder what it tastes like Maybe, you know I won’t know until I try it After going to that market, let’s head to the unloading area I was talking about it It got a bit long Ah, that’s fine Oh, is that okay? How about you? I bought it, though People often talk about whether the fat or the flesh is good or bad, but I’ve been observing the vitality of the tuna quite a bit This one is just overflowing with vitality There’s a bit of blood coming out here I don’t know how this is appearing on the body, but… Can you see it? Here If this blood were also present in the main body That’s the damage, then But you know, this kind of fat… Overall, it just rises up It comes up like this Because it’s the tail of fat Is that okay? Isn’t it good? Thank you Sounds good Shall we eat? That’s fine! Let’s have breakfast Well then, let’s cut it ourselves and make a meal together That’s pretty good, isn’t it? Okay, I got it, so hurry up! I’m already writing this tuna note, and I’m looking forward to writing it What is Kuroba-tei…? I really hated it when I was in elementary school, but I often talked about the place at home It was like, ‘They don’t listen to my story.’ I thought, ‘I don’t really like it,’ but I’m at Kuroba-tei Both part-time workers and staff Everyone It feels like family Busy peak seasons, COVID, and times when things aren’t so busy I’ve always managed to get through busy times I think Kurobatei, where there are people who feel like companions, is a place where I can be myself Actually, the most artisan-like quality is I think of her as my sister, not my father I really have a strong sense of responsibility, but on the flip side, that can also be quite overwhelming at times I ask myself questions internally Of course, my father also has a strong sense of responsibility I can really do quite a lot, but there are definitely some areas where I’m lacking The tuna I buy is usually a bit quirky You know, habits are like this… It’s just a matter of preference… Well, if we’re talking about women, it’s the seductive type This is more like a gravure idol after all Well, it’s a bit pretty and colorful I’m a bit into the sexy, you know… mature type of tuna It’s better to stop, right? Just a little… Kasumi was also at a loss for how to react I don’t want to, but… Elegant There is elegance… Mature woman… I like that… It’s not that I particularly like the real thing, you know? If I were to express it My father and sister have quite similar personalities and are really skilled craftsmen I have the impression that I’m always missing important points On the contrary, my mother seems to be compensating for that I’m usually in a good mood, but my personality is getting worse and worse I tend to have a negative mindset about everything There are times when my father and I can be inconsistent When my mother says something that makes me suddenly realize I’m also feeling disgusted with myself Patting my shoulder That’s really the kind of presence you have Um… this is my roots This is the shopping district here Ah! Like this I really like that story, I love this story So I passed through there I saw it that morning I went there soon in the afternoon To sum up the roots in one word I am Takumi Yamada, the master A type that is not found around here It feels a bit off There are times when I think it’s mysterious No, I’ve never met them You’ve changed, haven’t you? At first, you were like a shy little boy And then you got married As children grow up, I feel a sense of responsibility and maturity along with it The self is really blossoming I have become stronger Completely different at home and in the store Like someone else I’m really organized at the store, but at home, I tend to leave things half-done But in the end, when it really matters, I can count on them to make the right decision, which is very reassuring In that sense, the fact that we are accustomed to being united as a family, for better or worse, is a plus But in the future, if it’s my son, then my wife, and if it’s my daughter, I wonder if her husband will come I’m a bit worried about things right now Roots are, conversely, beginnings I think so After all, I always feel like I’m standing at the starting position As for roots, I think they represent the ‘beginning.’ For me, roots are about connecting the old recipes to the next generation, so they can learn about them and carry them forward I mean, it’s like… It’s a movement Maybe in the future My brother I think we should carry on, so I want to work hard together It feels good that local people are coming too Tourists have come as well I also have the feeling that I want to create a restaurant that says, ‘Mikazuki’s tuna is fun!’ Fish parts like tuna that you can’t find in the city can only be tasted in Misaki I want to create a store that I would like to offer There are amazing and wonderful ingredients There are still plenty more in Misaki I have a desire to spread this to everyone more Kuroba-tei can be summed up in one word: tuna Local fish And then there’s the research center for local vegetables Using unusual vegetables and fish that I’ve sourced myself and never seen before, I research the characteristics of those vegetables, digest the information myself, and then create a menu to offer to customers From the younger generation to the elderly Older people come to eat memories of what they had in the past Younger people are here for what’s trending now As young people continue to age, they will connect with their children and grandchildren I want to create a restaurant that I can proudly say, ‘It was delicious!’ Since our capacity is not broad, this is the extent of it I want to continue to ensure that our customers are very satisfied and happy Everything is a hint Each one is a hint, whether you’re talking to someone or dealing with anything else Those people have a sense of respect for those things, even if it’s just one I’m always trying to gain some knowledge, you know It’s getting there gradually Offal dishes are disappearing Such offal dishes of tuna Local cuisine is gradually disappearing, isn’t it? The preparation of the internal organs is truly amazing It takes an incredible amount of time, and many things can only be achieved through daily experience Traditional local cuisine’s internal dishes I believe that the challenge for me now is how to pass this on to the next generation To continue running that small shop That Things like feelings, spirit, and soul I believe my next challenge is how to pass these on to the next generation So are they going against the times by being that kind of shop? Or is it that Is it in line with the times? To be clear, I think it’s up to the customer to decide that Something like that I would like to visit a shop that seems to be edgy
「マグロのしっぽで、ここまで来た――」
“誰も見向きもしなかった部位”に、価値を見出した料理人がいる。
神奈川県・三浦市の漁港町で生まれた「くろば亭」。
その始まりは、マグロのしっぽと、たった1万円の資金からでした。
「臭くて不味い」と言われていたマグロの内臓。
「そんな部位、猫もまたぐ」と笑われた過去。
それでも料理人・山田拓哉さんは、内臓料理の可能性を信じ、
研究に研究を重ねて“絶品”へと変えていきます。
今では、ご家族と共に、
マグロのすべてを無駄なく活かす料理を提供し続け、
地元・三崎を代表する大人気店へと成長しました。
本動画は、くろば亭に密着し、
その裏にある「家族の絆」と「職人の執念」に迫った
ドキュメンタリー映像です。
00:00 イントロ
00:55 くろば亭とは
02:35 かすみさん
03:46 市場の中へ
09:17 支えてくれる方たち
10:20 思い出の場所へ
12:55 マグロの臓物
15:52 拓哉さんの魂
17:23 くろば亭の歴史
19:36 玄大さん
21:49 マグロの解体作業
26:51 父と娘
30:30 母
32:32 ルーツ
35:00 しっぽの先の物語
【今回ご協力いただいた店舗様】
まぐろ無国籍料理 くろば亭 様
HP:https://kurobatei.com/
使用機材:
BMPCC 6K PRO/DJI OSMO POCKET3
#ROOOTSJAPAN #JapaneseCuisine #Documentary #くろば亭